Spacing the drawers was a nightmare for me and I've more space around the drawers and door then I would like.
Now I understand how these runners work and how they're mounted I would use them again as they give a slick finish. Why have a delicate cabinet and then see all this hardware on the side of the drawers And they are soft close which is nice.
I could have used the old way on rails and styles, so sliding wood on wood, but after awhile they catch, The drawers are quite short, only 320mm long in this cabinet and they could be pulled out, I didn't want that.
I told a friend who has been a cabinet maker for years that I was using this type of runner for my drawers, she laughed and said "we don't use them, they're to hard and expensive".
Tuesday, 13 March 2012
Drawer runners
I wanted under drawer runners so they look more inconspicuous. I found them harder to fit than side mounted runners. As this is new to me I'm gaining the knowledge to fit them. Once the drawer runners were in and the drawers fitted I fettled the drawers to fit.
Drawers
These 4 drawers are curved inwards. All the same curve but different width, working from the smallest at the top to the largest at the bottom.
Top drawer 130mm x 420mm
Sliding dovetail at the front and back of drawer which I had to make up jigs for. Because nothing was square I found this quite difficult.
I had to square up one edge of the side and then work from that side. I had to make a level mount for the router to go on then it had to have a fence in the middle of the draw. Then I had to extend the router deep enough to cut the grooves and I ended up doing it in 3 passes. That meant I had to change the jig onto the next draw, the next draw and the next draw. I did a levelling cut then a depth cut and a dovetail cut on either side of the draw by 4 drawers.
Top drawer 130mm x 420mm
Sliding dovetail at the front and back of drawer which I had to make up jigs for. Because nothing was square I found this quite difficult.
I had to square up one edge of the side and then work from that side. I had to make a level mount for the router to go on then it had to have a fence in the middle of the draw. Then I had to extend the router deep enough to cut the grooves and I ended up doing it in 3 passes. That meant I had to change the jig onto the next draw, the next draw and the next draw. I did a levelling cut then a depth cut and a dovetail cut on either side of the draw by 4 drawers.
Pin
To lock the door I purchased latch/pin and I'm sure they are still made in the 1600's, they haven't changed their design. I did something different , I put the lock inside the door, having the pin coming out.
Osada Success 40
When your spending 8 hours per day for 10 days embellishing you tend to go through the dremels. I purchased this tool (on the left with the blue light) It's quiet with minimal vibration.
Now I can listen to music while I work.
Now I can listen to music while I work.
Lock
Because the door is curved I didn't get a big lock. Once again this was poorly made, the bit of brass was not square, a disgrace really. It was quite thick so I've filed quite a lot of the brass away, so I can get it into the door. So even a small detail of fitting a lock has been an issue with curved doors.
Finally the lock is fitted
Finally the lock is fitted
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